CONNECTICUT — While not exactly a “4th of July Weekend” — there’s that tedious Monday workday that’s disrupting the flow, big time — there is still no question that barbecues will be bouncing at one point during the first few days of July.
Americans will chow down on 150 million hot dogs, 190 million pounds of red meat and 750 million pounds of chicken in celebration of their land’s freedom this year, according to grill manufacturer Napoleon.
Although there’s no denying Connecticut cooks have a handle on the quantity of our burgers, ribs and sausages, the quality of our seared comestibles could use some work, if we’re being honest with ourselves. Do we really know what we’re doing out there on the patio, or are our guests just too polite or soaked (Americans typically drink about 68.3 million cases of beer, or 5 percent of our annual consumption, over the 4th of July weekend) to say anything?
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Patch spoke with three of Connecticut’s top grillmeisters to find out what we’re doing wrong, and how to correct it.
Find out what's happening in Across Connecticutwith free, real-time updates from Patch.
Low and Slow — And Don’t Forget the Hickory
Taino Smokehouse in Middletown (there’s another site in Meriden) is the top BBQ joint in Middlesex County, according to Connecticut Magazine.
In business since 2012, Taino uses only local hardwood, according to general manager Jen Birnbach. She said the secret to the perfect barbecue is going “low and slow,” referring to the heat level and the time spent cooking.
It was a mantra repeated by all three of the state’s champion BBQers with whom we spoke. Taino smokes its brisket — the restaurant’s most popular item — for 14 hours overnight.
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“Barbecue is definitely a labor of love,” Birnbach said. “And it takes a lot of time and commitment. It’s pretty much a 24-hour operation over here.”
Wood’s Pit BBQ & Mexican Cafe has been serving up what some feel is the best BBQ in Litchfield County for 28 years. We tried and failed to get owner Liz Biancardi to reveal the ingredients she uses in her rub, but she did tell us the secret sauce is in her smoke.
Patio chefs kitted out with the finest and most expensive charcoal and propane grills don’t want to hear it, but the prime ingredient for a world-class barbecue is a wood fire. Birnbach said that Taino only uses local hardwood, and Biancardi told us she uses hickory for the best flavor.
“Remember: low and slow,” Biancardi said. “We cook our ribs 245 (degrees Fahrenheit), but they’ll cook for five hours.”
The brisket and the pulled pork are the big sellers at Wood’s Pit, where the menu cautions diners to lower their expectations regarding service time:
“Wood’s Pit is not a fast food restaurant,” it admonishes. “Real barbecue takes time.”
Time, and Temperature
New London County’s top BBQ joint, according to Connecticut Magazine, is Noble Smokehouse in Mystic. Owner Josh Feldman said what most back deck Batali’s are lacking, is patience: We just don’t give ourselves enough time to do the job correctly.
Feldman said he leans on a little hi-tech solution to give him an edge. Whether he is grilling or smoking, the most indispensable weapon in the BBQ expert’s arsenal is the Chef IQ wireless meat thermometer, he told Patch. The thermometer communicates with his smartphone, and the app sends voice and other alerts when his food needs to be flipped, moved, or pulled from the heat. More amazing still, the wireless gadget is more accurate than its tethered cousin, according to Feldman.
As at Taino and Wood’s Pit, the most popular item on Noble House’s menu is slow-cooked brisket. Feldman says he is noticing a trend toward slow-cooking at home, and he is there for it. But with 15 hours of cooking time for many meats, the chef warns, “If you’re going to do it the right way, it takes a lot of patience.”
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